Denmark Adventures: Day 13

Something about the setting of a dark, cold and snowy February evening (with the Superbowl playing in the background) to put me in the mood for another Denmark recap.

The first stop on Day 13 was Fælledparken. Located a mere five minutes from the apartment, this expansive green space has something for everyone. Exercise venues, various unique playgrounds, soccer nets and other sports paraphernalia, and a massive skateboarding park. Perhaps most unique, to me at least, was Trafiklegepladsen – a location where Danish children can safely learn “traffic laws.” Although it’s not overly clear from the picture, everything is scaled to child-size, including all signs and benches.

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There are relatively distinctive sections to the park, including a water area, complete with small lakes and fountains. This park is also bordered by Parken, the large city stadium (where we looked longingly at the Coldplay concertgoers).

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We’d visited the park once before, but there were 25,000 runners competing in a race for charity – so we hadn’t been able to truly appreciate all the park had to offer. Next we headed to Thorvaldsens Museum – Thorvaldsen being the sculptor behind the gorgeous Twelve Apostles installation in the Church of Our Lady.

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True to typical frugal form, we elected to attend the museum on the specified day when entrance fees were waived. Despite having lived in Copenhagen over a year, Tim had yet to visit the museum, so it was a learning experience for us all. Most of the sculptures were original plaster casts, used in preparation for the final marble versions. Many were commissioned by political/religious leaders, and all were impressive in regard to both sheer size and attention to detail.

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The architecture of the building was as impressive as the sculptures; the employee conscripted to provide a brief blurb upon our entrance, was refreshingly passionate about the venue and insisted we remember to look up. The intricate paintings/etchings on the ceilings were spectacular. In some locations, we passed below scaffolding where we could observe artists reconstructing ceiling panels to their former glory.

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The museum housed the plaster casts of the Twelve Apostles; interestingly, Thorvaldsen had an apprentice work on a variety of casts but was unhappy with the end product two of the casts and ended up re-doing much of the work himself. Casts by both Thorvalden and his apprentice were on display for comparison, and it was clear why Thorvaldsen was the instructor! Much less impressive in their plaster form and in cramped quarters, but beautiful nonetheless.

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A statue of the artist, who is buried in the central courtyard of the museum.

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There was a special exhibit in the basement including a variety of Alexander the Great pieces but Abby had reached the end of her patience for sculpture observation.  So I headed outside with her in search of some source of distraction. A handful of rocks worked their magic.

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This picture captures her personality so well…

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I’ll admit, so many months removed from the events, I’m at a loss as to the agenda of that particular afternoon, but I’m suspecting it involved lunch (likely sandwiches on some delish Danish bread) and naps. Then we headed off for another highlight of our trip – a visit to Tivoli.

The second oldest amusement park in the world (we had visited the oldest amusement park a week earlier), it welcomes nearly 4 million visitors every year. Right in the heart of Copenhagen, Tivoli is like a whole different world – arcade games, restaurants galore (Hillary Clinton ate at one of the park restaurants when she was in the city), and a variety of rides (too expensive for our taste, and far less impressive in scale than Canada’s Wonderland).

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After the Deer Park, I would say Tivoli was my second favourite outing while in Denmark. Partly, I suppose, because Abby was perfectly content the entire evening. There was no lack of interesting sights and sounds.

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A floating restaurant.

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Another famous restaurant in the park.

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One of the “streets” within the park, including various food stands and arcade booths.

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Our second taste of churros didn’t disappoint – fresh from the frier, these were delicious.

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There was a great little playground in the heart of the park. The entire base of the playground was covered in a soft rubber to make it easier to withstand bumps and falls. Before we could actually make it into the playground proper, we got side-tracked by the musical opportunities.

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As we’d noticed throughout our stay, everything was child-friendly. And for good reason – kids are everywhere. Playing happily on their own most of the time, while parents observe from a distance. Children seem happy, active, and obedient. On a brief tangent – the same attributes seemed common among Danish pets!

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Lots of fun playground to explore. I suspect another time we visit, this will hold even more appeal.

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Another event that endeared the park to me – a heated, luxurious changing room for kids, complete with complimentary (good quality) diapers and wipes!

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We finished the evening by watching a pantomime show. It was a hilarious performance, and was a perfect end to the evening.

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And thus ended another great day in Denmark – complete with a snazzy railing.

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Denmark Adventures: Day 12

I’m aware I am woefully behind on my Denmark posts. My self-imposed goal of chronicling our vacation before Christmas – a complete and utter failure. Not that anyone is on the edge of their seats waiting for these updates…

I’ll also try to gloss over the fact that I still haven’t written a single word about our family Christmas activities or even hinted at our recent (and relatively successful) “drop the pacifier” exploits. Life has been busy, but I guess that’s what “life” does; work deadlines and toddler wrangling and pesky tasks like eating and sleeping end up taking center stage.

So for now I’ll stick with material that I’ve got in the bag – like recaps of family vacations that took place nearly half a year ago!

Another day with the full attention of our official tour guide, and we decided to tackle a day trip – Frederiksborg Palace.

Before we left, though, we captured Abby in her element. Playing on the day bed in Tim’s apartment, perusing the busy street below. She loved this nook, and felt quite proud when she was master of her little domain. Look at those gorgeous curls!

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What Kronberg Castle lacked in pomp and circumstance, Frederiksborg more than accommodated for; there were gold trimmings and ornate carvings and immense tapestries as far as the eye could see. It was actually a bit overwhelming at times to wander from room to room of ostentatious materials and displays of royal wealth.  And it even looked like a fairy-tale-type palace from the outside, complete with bridges and moats and elaborate gardens.

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We adopted the same tact as earlier castle/palace adventures: pawn off the wee one while we complete a whirlwind tour. Tim graciously (and patiently) walked with Abby around gardens and trails for several hours while we raced about the palace through a dizzying maze of rooms and displays. At one point we caught a glimpse of Abby’s bright blue jacket toddling around outside, tagging after Tim. Our hearts just swelled. There is something so adorable about watching your child from a distance while they interact with others. But I digress…

One of the first sights we encountered was the royal chapel. It was incredible and breathtaking. Pictures don’t do it justice. At all. John just piped up and told me to use the word opulence in this post. It would fit here nicely. Opulent.

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We, true to form, snapped lots of pictures along the way, but most just don’t translate unless you’ve been there to witness the same sights first-hand. So, short of sending everyone on an all-expenses paid vaca to Denmark (I’ll break it to you now – not happening), I’ll just give you the can-be-appreciated-by-all highlight reel.

This grand ball room was definitely one of the most impressive rooms we encountered while in Denmark. It was spectacular; apparently when my parents visited a year earlier, there were a series of mirrors set up throughout the room to make it easier to view the intricate works on the ceiling. Even sans mirrors, it was quite a sight. The one detractor (which we don’t have a picture of unfortunately): there are a series of royal paintings that line the walls, all very regal and formal. And then, tucked in an isolated corner was this modern monstrosity of a painting. Apparently, the official royal painting can’t be completed until that particular dignitary has died…but being alive is about the only good news for this particular royal, because his likeness was dreadful!

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I forget the specifics of this Bible now – it’s owner and the reason it was highlighted as a relic – but I do remember being wowed.

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A few of the interesting pieces of art we encountered. This piece was incredibly addicting and I kept moving back and forth to view the distinct figures.

The first picture is a bit muddled:

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From another angle:

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From the other angle:

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Another piece that required perspective (this time from a modern art collection in an upstairs annex) – a collage created from plastic bags.

No context:

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And context (this is Denmark’s “Kate Middleton”):

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After several hours, and likely several miles of walking, we headed back outside.

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We happened upon Tim a few minutes later with a sleeping Abby in her stroller. We wandered along the beautiful paths, and things were going just swimmingly until I managed to fumble a sandwich and in our attempt to rescue it from a pebbly demise, awoke Abby.

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Ah well, she enjoyed her time of discovery immensely and I think the resulting pictures are just precious:

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Look at those pigtails.

The hedge work was incredible, and I can’t imagine how many full-time staff are devoted solely to the upkeep of these walkways and ponds.

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Overall, just a stellar day! See more adventures here.

Denmark Adventures: Day 11

Not sure if my goal of finishing these posts before Christmas is realistic anymore, but here goes another Denmark recap!

We started out by strolling (no biking allowed) through a park across town. It was really quite beautiful.

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And…it had a soother tree. Most children in Denmark tote around a soother (or two or three) until they are several years old. A popular way to dispose of their soothers, and rid themselves of the habit I suppose, is to leave them attached to certain trees in the city. Apparently, a city worker will come and cut these down on a semi-regular basis, so this just goes to show how much Danish kids like their paci’s! Many sets of soothers are attached together using ribbon and include an attached note, presumably saying farewell…my Danish isn’t so great. If Abby didn’t love hers so much – and I didn’t think I would need it on the return trip home – I would have loved to leave her pacis on the tree, complete with a note.

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The poor girl – there were SO many Mam soothers (her preferred brand) dangling in front of her temptingly. She did slip one in her mouth (sorry any germaphobes), but was just fascinated by this display!

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Uncle Tim and Abby!

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Had to snap a picture of this scene – a baby placed off in the shade to nap while the mother lounged reading a book at a reasonable distance away in the sun.

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In the afternoon, John and I headed off to another local art gallery (within 10 minutes of Tim’s apartment, and 2 minutes from the main SMK museum). This was far less impressive than the national art gallery, but the special exhibit was quite enjoyable.

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I loved this Christmas scene; the artist took three months AFTER Christmas finishing the details, so each evening his family would line up around their tree (what I imagine what just a heap of needles by the end of it) to recreate the pose.

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The signature painting – it was a lot larger than this picture portrays.

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In the afternoon we headed off to a local beach, located near the airport – it was stunning, and one of our favourite memories from the whole trip. The weather was PERFECT!

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The bridge linking Denmark with Sweden – the bridge actually ends up in the middle of the water in a man-made island, connecting to an under-water tunnel, to avoid interfering with air traffic (the airport is nearby).

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The requisite bikes!

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This is a fascinating piece of construction, with various tiers and floating platforms for diving and sunbathing. There are also change rooms located at various points in the structure. I really regret not having my bathing suit handy or I would have definitely gone swimming.

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When we were passing by this stretch of boats I saw a man (partially clothed) jump into the water suddenly. I was confused until he surfaced clutching keys – he’d drop a set into the water and had to act fast to catch them!

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Abby had a blast!

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Another view of the diving “apparatus.”

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As we were ready to leave the beach we happened upon a game of water – volleyball/polo – something-or-other?

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John was determined to get an active “jump” shot – I won’t show you all the outtakes. There were many. Abby just laughed from the sidelines (she LOVES to watch other people jump, and thinks it’s hilarious).

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The best of the worst!

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See Day 1&2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5, Day 6, Day 7, Day 8, Day 9, Day 10